Gibb River Road

Here is a quick re-cap of our where-abouts for the past week or so...

After leaving El Questro we had to cross the Pentecost River. It is renowned for being a deep river crossing but we crossed it without any probs....



We arrived at Home Valley Station which is a camp ground with in ground pool, manicured lawns and bar. It was nicely set out and we found a great camp spot for 2 nights which we shared with our friends, the Rees family....



We took a drive on the station property back down to the Pentecost River, which is home to the saltwater crocodile and managed to see something resembling a croc floating further down the river. The view was magnificent over the river and the green river flats with the Cockburn Ranges beyond...



We also took a rough 4WD trip through the property to a lookout....



While we were at Home Valley the kids also completed some school work and swam in the pool.

From Home Valley we travelled 290km along Gibb River Road to Manning Gorge campground. We enjoyed staying at this remote campground for 2 nights, camped under a huge boab tree, cooking on a camp fire each night and beside the Manning River (sounds familiar???). To reach the gorge we were required to wade and swim across the freshwater crocodile infested Manning River and then hike 3km across harsh sandstone country to the gorge. It was beautiful and well worth it. It was lovely to cool off in the water after the hike. Rod and the boys jumped off the waterfall at different heights and had a great time.



We then drove a further 100km down the road to Silent Grove Campground where we spent 1 night. After setting up camp and went for the pleasant, mostly shaded walk to Bell Gorge, with a stunning waterfall and great swimming. I enjoyed laying on the sun-drenched rocks while a cool breeze blew through the gorge.



Finally we detoured off the Gibb River Road to complete the last leg of our Gibb River Road experience... Windjana Gorge National Park. We camped at Windjana for 2 nights. The first day we hiked the 7km return trip through the magnificent Windjana Gorge, which was completely different to the other gorges and home to over 100 freshwater crocs. We spotted many big freshies sun baking on the banks and needless to say, we didn't enjoy a swim in the gorge, but enjoyed the views and pleasant walk through the lush vegetation that lines the banks of the string of waterholes.





The next day we went to Tunnel Creek, an underground passage which was eroded beneath a limestone range. The cave is dark and about 750m long, we wore our head torches to light the passage. It was fun! At the end of the tunnel, the sun light beams in and opens to a sunny waterhole. To the left of the rear opening we found some Aboriginal artwork.



We left Windjana Gorge and drove towards Fitzroy Crossing and followed the sealed road back to Halls Creek where we stayed a night.

The Gibb River Road trip was a great adventure. We were looking forward to difficult corrugated roads and numerous river and creek crossings. Although we found some corrugations and water crossings, I think we very fortunate as the road conditions weren't too severe due to recent road gradings, nor creeks and rivers too full. We'll be back to experience this road again, however the conditions may be very different.

El Questro

Finally the Gibb River Road was opened to vehicles under 15tonne, which meant we were able to tow our caravan along the Gibb – our first destination.... El Questro Station, where we stayed for 5 nights. Approximately 30km along the Gibb River Road, we hit the entrance to El Questro Station, which is a one million acre property, cattle station and wilderness park. A 16km road took you through several creek and river crossings, including a Pentecost River crossing, to the township. We found our friends, the Rees Family, upon arrival and camped across from them.
Daniel and Ben found a muddy puddle, which became a ‘muddy slip and slide’. No doubt they were sent to the waterhole to clean themselves up before coming into the caravans.



I remained ill for most of our time at El Questro, managing a few outings, but paying the price afterwards. It’s so frustrating when you just want to get out there.

Rod and the kids went to Branco’s Lookout and they reckoned the drive was just as good as the view, as they got to cross a deep winding river along the way.

We went with the Rees Family on an informative river cruise along the Chamberlain River. Although there are freshwater and saltwater crocs in these waters, we didn’t see any. But the archer fish were very interesting and amusing – naturally these fish dart water out of the river to unsuspecting insects flying above, which then drop to the water to become their feed. We were invited to hold our hands overboard and the archer fish actually shot water at us, at times hitting us in the face. We also saw huge barramundi swimming under the boat, conveniently in the “No Fishing” area.




On the trip back from the jetty, I got to experience the ‘mean’ river crossing the kids and Rod had crossed the previous day – it’s amazing where your vehicle can actually go.



The Gibb River Road Bike Challenge was on, which requires fit mountain bike rider to ride the Gibb River Road from Derby to El Questro, approximately 660km of unforgiving terrain, over a five day period. The 400 riders pulled into our camp grounds completing their challenge, which made for a very busy campground.

The following morning we headed for Zebedee Springs and due to the number of campers at the campground, we rose early to beat the crowd to the springs. We arrived at 6.10am and although there were numerous people already there, we manage to get a pool all to ourselves. The water temperature varies between 28 and 32 degrees. It was a beautiful way to wake up in the morning. Following a one hour revitalising soak in the thermal springs we headed back to camp to begin school work.



In the early afternoon we went for a walk with the Rees Family through El Questro Gorge. The path was rocky but the view was stunning, red gorge walls, trickling clear water creek, palms and lush green vegetation. It was a 1.6km walk to the Halfway Pool, where everyone went for a dip to cool off. Rod and the kids explored further on for another 15minutes or so, and then we all returned to the car.



Although we had planned to leave after 4 nights, we had to stay an extra night as the road was still closed to vehicles over 3 tonnes. Unsure how much longer our stay would be extended, Rod and Stuart drove to Kununurra to gather further petrol, food and supplies.

Everyone went to Emma Gorge, while I remained in bed still attempting to recover from my chest infection..... Grrrr! It seems a nice day was had by all.
Finally the road was open again for us to travel a further 50km down the road to Home Valley Station.

Kununurra

We travelled the long sealed road from Derby to Kununurra and on the way to Kununurra we stopped overnight near the Bungle Bungles to camp.... the kids slept in their new swags for the first time. Oh my goodness, they were so excited – they couldn’t wait to go to sleep. While Rod and I snuggled up in the caravan, the kids spent the first night under a clouded sky. And it rained. We invited them to come back into the caravan, but refused saying “We aren’t getting wet!”



We spent 4 nights in Kununurra.

When we arrived in Kununurra we met up with our dear friends, the Gallaghers. Everyone was happy to be reunited and we shared news of our respective trips!
The Gallaghers took us into town to the Visitor’s Centre and then all the kids went to the skate park. Daniel was so pleased that Ben Gallagher taught him to ride his ripstick up and down the ramps! And no doubt the boys asked to go to the skate park everyday!



The first evening we sat at our perfectly positioned camp site and watched the sunset over nibblies and a few wines. Later that evening we went for a walk to the Pump House to spotting freshwater crocs... they are much easier to see at night because their eyes glow. Then the boys went croc spotting on their own and got up close and personal with Rocky, the caravan park’s resident freshie.



Daniel was soooo overdue for a haircut and we’d finally convinced him to have a camp cut... no.1 all over. Daniel had decided to grow it, but the humidity changed his mind as he was always hot and sweaty.





I happened to get a flu and a chest infection and spent a couple of days resting. Rod took the kids to Kununurra library to complete their school work (or as Daniel calls it – ‘their fluff and stuff’), with their mates the Gallaghers. I believe they enjoyed working alongside their mates and were rewarded with a stop at the skate park.

One evening we met with the Rees Family and went to the lookout at Kelly’s Knob, giving long distance views over the township and farms of Kununurra. Then we went for a walk in the Mirima National Park – also known as the “Mini Bungle Bungles”. They came over afterwards and we had a barbecue along with the Gallaghers. Another croc hunting (or spotting) adventure occurred this particularly evening, we found a croc, a tortoise and a very long snake.

This night I slept in Chantelle’s swag and woke in the middle of the night to find an owl only a metre from my feet watching me sleep! I got up and went into the caravan to retrieve the camera and even managed to take a photo of it. It wasn’t afraid of my movement, just looked from side to side watching me.

The most awesome thing we did while in Kununurra was hire boats with the Gallagher Family for half the day – from 12 noon and headed off exploring Lake Kununurra.... The views were just magnificent - Gorgeous red cliffs and gorges, mangroves, and still mirrored water. It really felt like we were on a “Kimberley Adventure”. We found Freshwater Crocs perched on weed islands basking in the sun, a magnificent wedge-tailed eagle soaring above us, a brave blue tongue lizard and a golden tree snake swimming in the middle of the lake, which wanted to climb aboard our boat.







The kids and the adults enjoyed catching up with the Gallagher Family, who were headed for the Bungle Bungles the day we left. We look forward to catching up again soon and hearing their travelling news.

We are headed for the ‘Gibb River Road’............... EL QUESTRO HERE WE COME!

Derby

The last day in Broome the rain slowly moved in. When we drove into Derby the roads and roadsides were quite wet and we knew that they had had considerable rain – 70mm that morning. The average rainfall for the month of May in Derby is 17mm. And it continued to rain for days....

All our plans had changed – our Horizontal Waterfall cruise had been cancelled due to poor visibility and the inability of the seaplane to land near the catamaran. Unfortunately the rain was relentless for days and we have had to postpone the cruise - but Robin will be back home.

When in the town in Derby an aboriginal woman approached us to buy a carved boab nut – Rod was really impressed with the detail and bought it for $20. An aboriginal man named Keith (originally from Wyndham) asked to show the kids how he carves on the boab nut, so we all sat under a shelter as he chattered to us and demonstrated a carving which Robin then purchased.



A boab tree is a unique tree, which I believe, is found only in the Kimberley Region. It is a deciduous tree with a swollen trunk which grows in sandy conditions. The boab tree nuts grow on the tree and fall to the floor – when the nut cracks open a white pith is in the centre which holds the seeds. Occasionally you can find a whole boab nut on the floor at the base of a boab tree. The kids found some nuts and have created some of their own carvings...



The tide in Derby is the highest in southern hemisphere and had risen to over 11m while we were there – with a difference of 9m between high and low tide. A huge difference between a high and low tide is called a ‘spring tide’, with the smallest difference between tides being a ‘neap tide’. These huge tides are what create the ‘Horizontal Waterfalls’ which we endeavour to see.

We visited the 'School of the Air' in Derby. We watched a class take place over the internet - which was fascinating. We also went on a tour through the school. The kids bought a book and donated it to the school...



We took Robin on a day trip to Fitzroy Crossing to see Geikie Gorge, a stunning gorge with Aboriginal significant sites. Some interesting photos taken there too...



The white stain on the gorge wall shows how high the water rises during the wet season.

On the 20th May, Rod drove Robin back to Broome to fly home (and I think she was really looking forward to it - don't know why???? LOL). Unfortunately we had encountered some wet humid weather, which made day trips difficult and has left us up in the air about where to next.... all National Parks and gorges closed due to rain. SO OFF TO KUNUNURRA - in the hope of travelling back along the Gibb River Road from Kununurra to Derby.

Broome (2)

We stayed in Broome for another 9 nights. The temperature remained in the mid-30 degrees but was less humid than the previous 2 weeks we had spent in Broome and in the Dampier Peninsula – much too our relief. Robin (Rod’s mum) flew over from Old Bar to spend 10 days with us.

As Robin enjoys photography we endeavoured to show her some lovely sights - some beautiful sunsets over Cable Beach. We went to the outdoor Sun Picture cinema to watch Bran Nu Dae – which was pretty special as it was filmed in Broome and the cinema we were sitting in was a setting in a scene in the movie!!!

We went for a drive out to Crab Creek to take more photos, but it didn’t make a good picnic spot as it is occupied by saltwater crocodiles.

We went to the Malcom Douglas Crocodile Park, which held some HUGE saltwater crocodile sitting within a metre behind a cyclone fence, which constantly needed repairing due to croc attacks. We attended the feeding tour and watched hungry crocs jump up at the fence for a chicken feed. And we got to hold a 2 month old saltwater crocodile.... wouldn’t want to get too close to the bigger ones.





We went for a drive up the Dampier Peninsula to James Price Point, which has been proposed for a gas mine area with 3000 people expected to be living there... a peaceful place which could possibly and seems inevitably to be changed due to ‘progress’...



We then drove south to Willie Creek, where we had booked in to a pearl farm tour. This informative tour described the process of cultured pearls and included a boat tour along Willie Creek to observe the pearl farm. But funnily enough, the highlight of the tour was the resident saltwater croc – the first one we have seen in the WILD!



While we were in Broome, we met the Rees Family – a family from Sydney. Their children Ben and Molly are also in the Sydney Distance Education program and have the same teacher as Daniel and Chantelle. The kids had awesome fun playing together and of course the adults enjoyed daily drinks. It’s nice to talk to other families going through the ‘fun’ of travelling with kids!

Middle Lagoon

2nd - 7th May

We drove north from Broome about 170km up the Dampier Peninsula to a camp at Middle Lagoon. We spent 5 nights camped at Middle Lagoon under a shady berry tree, situated on Aboriginal land and run by a few an Aboriginal families. The first evening there the kids met two local indigenous kids named Siad (6) and Naya (4). The kids climbed trees, made cubby houses and played soccer.





The following day we drove to One Arm Point, another Aboriginal Community, near Cape Leveque. We had lunch at Middle Beach under a big awning built for visitors - you are asked to respect the Aboriginal dongers and not use them as they are built for the Aboriginals to use to for cultural purposes.



After lunch, we drove to the hatchery where we were given a tour... the kids loved patting the turtles and holding the sea cucmbers and slugs...



But my favourite was the lion fish, it has spikes that come out when he feels threatened and he's venomous... don't want to touch this one while snorkeling.



After visiting the hatchery we drove to Kooljaman - Cape Leveque, we went for a walk and swim and then hung out on the beach to watch the sun set...



We spent a few days at camp relaxing and fishing. On one particular day Rod and I caught 4 fish each. I caught 1 bream, 2 blue tuskfish (blue bone) and a 62cm long tom. Rod caught 3 blue tuskfish and a bream.




Finally some fish bragging!

We drove the back route to Beagle Bay and visited the Sacred Heart church, decorated with shells...



And each evening we sat around the camp fire and chatted with other campers. We enjoyed our relaxing time at Middle Lagoon!

Broome

27th April - 2nd May

We arrived in Broome earlier than expected and caught up with the Gallagher Family for 3 days. We met the Gallaghers at Karigini - they are from Perth and also travelling around Australia. The kids were soooo happy to catch up with their old friends and just loved hanging out with them.





We spent 5 nights at Palm Grove Caravan Park, a wonderful shady place to revive, cool off in their shaded pool and is just over the sand dunes from Cable Beach. Rod and I got motivated each morning for an early jog before the place heated up and all you could do is swim!!!

We had a few evening outings with the Gallaghers - we caught up with them fishing at Broome Port. Together we watched "How to Train Your Dragon" at the oldest outdoor picture cinema in Australia, sitting back on deck chairs with the occasional plane flying overhead before its landing.... definitely an unique experience!

We also took a picnic dinner down to Town Beach, where we shared a lovely glass (well plastic cup) of red wine before observing the "Staircase to the Moon", a natural phenomenon where a full moon reflects at low tide on the mud flats for an awesome view....




Some times it's the people you meet that can make a point in time special... rather than the extraordinary places you visit.

After the Gallaghers left for Fitzroy Crossing, we relaxed for a few days and shopped for groceries before heading north to the Dampier Peninsula.